Mackerel Skies

Every day I walk the same route, with the same noisy dogs, around the same gardens and yet somehow each day it is different.

Whenever we get a break from English lowering skies, it is always uplifting to look up at all the different sorts of clouds: the scudding, thick small white distressed marshmallows, the larger white pillows edged in Nordic grey or, one of my personal favourites, a mackerel sky. Even more rarely, from time to time, the sky is also unbelievably blue, a deep strong ultramarine or cobalt or azure blue – so clearly blue that it makes all of us smile.

The traditional rhyme is “Mackerel sky, mackerel sky. Never long wet and never long dry” and these clouds are a sign of changeable weather. The meteorological explanation is that cirrocumulus clouds are given a rippled effect by high altitude atmospheric waves. As these high clouds increase and the barometric pressure declines, rain becomes likely within the next 6-12 hours.

Recently there have been several mackerel skies. The clouds get their name from their undulating, rippling pattern which is similar in appearance to the many shades of grey on the sides of migrating mackerel fish as they swim through light filled water.

Spending time in Cornwall by the sea, the fishing boats and trawlermen were part of everyday life as was mackerel fishing. We all somehow knew when they were heading out to sea and when they were returning with their catch. However, the “mackerel-crowded seas” mentioned by Yeats are sadly no more. A once abundant species, it has been overfished thanks to much argued fishing quotas which has resulted in its sustainability rating being downgraded. Today, the fishermen setting off to catch mackerel tend to be small scale, inshore fishing vessels using handlines both to catch fish to sell and to lure keen anglers out on charters.

Mackerel is a delicious fish, closely related to tuna. Its moist flesh is high in omega 3 oils and it is best eaten when very fresh: barbequed, baked or raw as sushi. Smoked it makes an excellent pate. As ever it is about appreciating what we choose to eat.

The slang expression of surprise “Holy Mackerel” dates back at least 200 years and is perhaps a reference to Catholics eating fish on Fridays. Possibly, as a result, some people always serve mackerel in the shape of a cross with a mixed green salad and crusty bread: “bread and fishes”.

In the summer it marries well in taste and association with samphire. This is best foraged in June, July and August and can be readily found in the mudflats and salt water marshes that exist all round the British coastline. Samphire is also sometimes called Saint Peter’s herb after the patron saint of fisherman. In the USA it is known as “sea beans” whilst in Canada it is called “sea asparagus”. Irrespective of where it is found, it needs to be thoroughly washed before eating to get rid of all the grit. It can be eaten raw but it is also delicious boiled or steamed for a couple of minutes and served with a drizzle of melted butter and a squeeze of fresh lemon juice.

The following is one of my favourite mackerel recipes and I seem to be, as in last week’s blog, very happily focused on food!

Preparation time: 10 minutes

Cooking time: 12-16 minutes

Serves: 3-4 depending on size of fish caught

Ingredients

• 2 tbsp. creamed horseradish
• 150g/8 ½ oz. Greek yoghurt
• 300g washed picked baby spinach
• 1 tsp English mustard
• grated zest and juice of 1 lemon
• 1 tsp red wine vinegar
• 3 sprigs flat leaf parsley
• 3 mackerel – allow 1 per person on average
• salt and freshly ground pepper
• two lemon wedges for garnish
• hand full of samphire

Instructions

1. Preheat the oven to 180c
2. Combine the horseradish and yoghurt and season with salt and black pepper. Mix the mustard with the lemon juice and vinegar and stir in the lemon zest. Add this mixture to the yoghurt.
3. Roughly chop the parsley and spinach and add to the yoghurt mixture.
4. Fill the washed, cleaned mackerel with the yogurt and herb mixture.
5. Place in the oven for 15 minutes or until cooked. (Test at the back of the head or top of the fish spine with the tip of a knife to see if it’s hot).
6. Dress the mackerel on a plate with sea asparagus and lemon
7. Any unused yoghurt mix can be served on the side.

In the winter mackerel is equally well accompanied by some roasted vegetables such as beetroots, butternut squash, tomatoes and carrots with a generous sprinkling of herbs.