
Stretching away in front of me is a winding well-trodden sheep path. Narrow but clearly marked, it wiggles across the enormous field towards the horizon. The field occupies a huge space with plenty of room for roaming far and wide, yet, the sheep clearly prefer to follow each other in single file without deviation.
As children, my sisters and I used to step carefully through such fields in the summer, trying not to disturb the sheep, spending days drawing maps and building hideouts, torn between the desire to keep the locations secret but proud enough of our creations to want to show them off to our parents.
Today, decades later, my view of the path sent me back through the years with the same temptation to follow the path in the sheep’s footsteps and the same question as to why they do this. The dogs of course roam in different directions, having absolutely no interest in the vagaries of the sheep route but I was and am still left with the curiosity.
Sheep bond tightly to form a flock: they instinctively want to be in a group and feel more secure like that – isolation stresses them. They are repetitive in their daily behaviour for the same reason hence the paths. Once one of them starts to move with purpose, the others will follow the “leader”.
However, the answer as to why they take the routes they do is not always so clear. Sheep sensibly tend to follow the driest ground unless disrupted by drainage or man-made tracks. They have a good sense of smell and, like many other animals, scent glands in their feet so that a well-trodden path will have a strong lingering smell. Then, once a path is established, they find it easier to walk on it, as it is firmer underfoot and so it becomes self-perpetuating.
They are other sorts of sheep “paths” too. In areas where sheep have been a long-term part of farming life with the consequent economic cycles of agriculture, their movements and the sheep fairs have also become part of the landscape and local etymology. Some road names recall how we used to move animals around – Sheepdrove is a relatively common road name in England and it used to signify a route used by shepherds on a repetitive or seasonal basis. The word is an old one meaning both a herd of sheep and to drive sheep, (presumably to market).

Stockbridge
To the south of Highclere lies the town of Stockbridge, named because it was where you could drive stock across the river. Such routes would have pauses for pasture and pubs called the Drovers Arms or Inn or House, or “The Jolly Drover” marking potential stopping points. Another Stockbridge is now part of Edinburgh, again with a bridge, a market and a long history.
One thousand years ago, an area within the estate at Highclere was called Scipdell (a valley in which sheep were kept).The shepherds would presumably have taken their flocks out above Highclere on the Downs, along the ancient Wayfarer’s Walk which follows the higher contours. That route may have offered a safer option than lower pathways which could be blocked by bad weather conditions or thieves and highwaymen.
The Wayfarer’s walk runs above and beyond Highclere to a town called Emsworth on the south coast. Ironically, before Downton Abbey, Highclere Castle played “Totleigh Towers” in the popular TV series “Jeeves and Wooster.” Totleigh was the rival house to the fictional Lord Emsworth at Blandings Castle and much of the story centres on the competition between these two great houses on the subject of pigs (rather than sheep) with often hilarious results. In real life, Highclere has both pigs and sheep as part of our landscape and farming. Neither sheep nor pigs are particularly easy to steer with often amusing results but the trick is to persuade the sheep for example that their interests and ours are the same. However, all such animals play an essential role in our care through long rotations and interrelated management of this ancient landscape.
What is so lovely about winter walks is there is a vivid sense of walking in ancestors’ footsteps, of treading the old ways. In winter there is less to obscure the view, making it possible better to see and understand how our surroundings have been shaped by the activity of animals, wildlife and ourselves. It is a joint shared world.
Lovely words and it was a pleasure to read. Thankyou, Lady Carnarvon.
I always enjoy reading your blogs and this one was particularly interesting. Thank you.
Thank you
Thank you for your thoughts. A winter walk around Highclere sounds lovely. My one regret when I visited a number of years ago with a private off season tour was that we did not get a chance to walk some of the grounds because it was pouring down rain. Your staff, however, did open the shop and I see mementos of the visit everyday at home.
In the US, especially in the West, there is a move to build bridge crossing for the wild animals where roads cross their migration routes. I drive under 2 near Pinedale Wyoming every summer. Much like the sheep, the animals, especially Pronghorn (antelope), although they move more as a herd and not single file, seem to figure out how to use them, even without the help of a drover.
It’s such a treat to picture this lovely place as it is today and yet it seems to continue on as it was in yesteryears.
Thank you for sharing your days with us who would only otherwise only know Highclere from television.
Barb Stout
Braselton, GA
USA
Thank you for sharing all your wonderful blogs. I just love hearing your thoughts and memories. It makes all of us feel a part of Highclere!
An interesting post! And I never knew that sheep had scent glands in their feet! One aspect I’ve wondered about when seeing photos of animal paths is why sometimes a path seems to “wander” a bit in small curves rather than going in a straight line from Point A to B. But maybe the lead sheep had reasons! Thank you for your posts.
I wondered that, as well. Maybe the lead sheep sneezed?
Cheers,
Jane
Love seeing the sheep paths! Gave me a chuckle because we have squirrel paths! We put seeds on our patio and they carefully follow the paths, making their way through the snow! Even our feral cat follows the squirrel paths to get to the food we leave out for her! Clever animals!
So funny!
Lady Carnarvon,
A timely story about following a leader whom one trusts to be going in a known and well-used direction. Would that all leaders shared the best interests of their followers with good intentions and leading in trusted paths. Thank you for leaving us thinking how to live a better life by following our instincts, as sheep probably do!
Martha
Hello Lady Carnarvan!
This was so interesting. I grew up around farmland, but mostly dairy farms. Lots of cows but no sheep. And thanks to your post today, now I understand why the pub in All Creatures Great and Small is called the the Drovers. It’s rather fascinating how names of places and roads comes about.
Have a wonderful day!
It is indeed!
The past reveals to us the quality of life that we lose with modern life. This place is beautiful. The desire to visit Highclere Castle is the size of the difficulty of becoming a reality one day.
Thank you I do agree!
I always enjoy reading your web site. Thank you
fondly Jenny
Dear Lady Carnarvon,
I never knew sheep had scent glands in their feet. They are such funny animals. We don’t have many sheep where we are as we are nestled in dairy country, but occasionally they are put out to pasture on the levels. I saw a sheep dog being chased by a sheep once, I think it must have been a young dog. Every time the shepherd whistled out his instructions the sheep pushed the poor dog in a different direction whilst all the other sheep stood still and watched, to the left, and to the right and so on. Finally the shepherd let another dog out of his vehicle and this one got all the sheep through the gate within minutes. It was amazing to watch. Love Jeeves and Wooster, the characters and Totleigh was far superior to Blandings in my opinion. All brilliant.
Jane
Lady Carnarvon,
I hope that you are well.
Your blog about sheep led me to look up some quotes about them.
This one was credited to Elvis Presley.
“The Lord can give, and the Lord can take away. I might be herding sheep next year.”
Thank you for your weekly chronicle.
That was lovely to read.
I hope the paths & the place names never get lost to our modern day world.
So do I!
Lovely words. Thank you for so graciously sharing your life with us. I find it a joy to read your blog.
https://shows.acast.com/pjrchive/episodes/stephen-fry-hugh-laurie-interview
As a born and bred city gal I find these blogs so interesting. I now live in a Market town surrounded by beautiful farmed countryside. I’m getting a better understanding of country ways/life.
Lovely words, and so very interesting. Thank you
Thank you for another wonderful post Lady Carnarvon. Your childhood memory of playing in similar fields with sheep paths begs the question: Where did you grow up?
I grew up in London and Cornwall
What a fascinating article! Thank you so much 🙂 Sheep have recently become a part of my son’s world (via a “hobby farm”) so your insight was even more appreciated.
Some Day i visit there. I live Finland and My big dream its show this Creat Palace. You are Creat person. Nice spring for you all♥️
Dear Lady Carnarvon,
Your storytelling continues to be captivating! I could almost hear the sheep & feel their woolen coats as they followed along the trails. Something to be said for “staying in our lane” at times! I grew up & remain on farmland & know the peace & contentment from the land & thinking on those before us – along with creatires great & small, our ancestors, & in my case, also the Native Americans whose Indian arrowheads were plowed up by my grandfather & saved for us to study & wonder.
All goodness & mercy to you & the Earl in 2023. And visiting Highclere remains high on my list – maybe with the honor & privilege of meeting you to properly thank you for your dedication to sharing your lovely stories with us!
I hope to eventually see you at Highclere!
Dear Lady Carnarvon,
Thank you for such an informative piece. I never heard much about sheep paths when I was growing up. Paths created years ago by cows have become streets in St. John’s. Obviously they knew the best routes. I would say there were sheep paths also. Again, thank you. Take care.
Susan Kearsey
Take care
Lady Carnarvon lovely of sheep paths did you and lord Carnarvon have a nice a weekend and lovely to visit highcelere castle and fan of Downton Abbey
Dear Lady Carnarvon,
What an educational story for this Monday. Such a lovely piece, thank you for posting it.
Lady Carnarvon. Your writings today remind us of the days gone by and how they formed today’s persuits. In the western US, large flocks of sheep are herded across the high plains and mountainous areas spring thru fall. If you can find a high spot and look over the hills and valleys, you see the sheep (deer and antelope) and trails wondering over the countryside which gives you pause to think of the many sheepmen and conditions that existed in decades of the past
Hope you have a good week.
I’ve read in one of your replies that you spent your childhood in Cornwall. That’s great! I visited this enchanting land many years ago and I really enjoyed it , I loved Polperro, Penzance and Land’s end, St.Ives. Well, men pass away, instead nature with its immense paths remains forever and talks to us about the past. And we are the custodians
I love the old coastal walks, the seaspray and sea air of Cornwall..
Thanks for sharing your beautiful experiences. Living in the city is such a totally different life so it is wonderful to walk vicariously in your footsteps. A different kind of relaxation! Now for a cup of tea.
Fascinating. Sounds like they just want to be sure-footed so they take the most stable path. Here in New York State and in many other residential woodland areas, we have wild turkeys and, they “follow the leader.” As a garden and home landscape designer, and keeping wildlife who live on and visit in mind, I observed “my” flock to watch their single-file traveling and hunting for food.
I poured whole corn into a tote bag and walked through the woods, stepping over fallen trees and across seasonal brooks, a few kernels every few steps. It did not take long for them to notice and twenty turkeys were soon scratching their strong feet to get and look for more corn. I did this on a regular basis for my enjoyment and theirs! They created woodland trails that meander throughout the property that are enjoyed by both humans and wildlife.
I love your blogs and coming from the US, it is fascinating to me that you can claim the history of Highclere back to the 700’s. I was fortunate to have visited the UK about 15 years ago and the history and architecture, and yes the sheep, just amazed me.
Thank you for this wonderful story!! I love this blog! It is very educational, calm and positive! Thank you very much!
Dear Lady Carnarvon,
How lovely it is to have sheep in ones life…..In my early days I worked on one of the Rockefellers’ family farms and worked specifically with the many sheep. We had a few hundred head of heritage breed sheep. It was a wonderful job. I especially enjoyed working with the border collie who knew his job perfectly.
Now, some 35 years later, I still have sheep in my life, but this is one ewe named Gladys who was brought up with our dog. Needless to say, she prefers the company of her people and her dog and enjoys a hike now and then. How absolutely fabulous the animals are….
Thank you, as always.
Jenny
Fascinating look into the lives of sheep. Being a city girl, I have VERY LITTLE knowledge of them. In fact I was surprised the first time we went to England, and driving along country roads to see the sheep with colored markings on them. I’ve heard differing stories of why this was done, so I’m still clueless. I guess I could research it myself online. LOL!
Val in California
The different coloured marks are applied after the ewes are scanned to know whether the ewe is having 1, 2 or 3 lambs
I had the same experience as Valarie. When I asked a gentleman about this, he seemed embarrassed and gave me an answer of what a hard winter they had and went on with something unrelated to my question. I later found out from friend in Yorkshire the reason for the colored behinds. We had a good laugh.
There are coloured numbers and marking and coloured behinds…
Thank you Lady Carnarvon for sharing. Your story runs like a movie in my mind and I can picture every detail. A glimpse into your world.
Your writing always leaves me wanting more. So poetic. Thank you for such wonderful stories.
Thank you!
In northeastern New Jersey the old roads follow the paths of the Indigenous Peoples through the woods!
As an inveterate knitter I am always interested in sheep, therefore I found your blog today rather fun. And when you go into the background of words I always get excited!
Thanks again for the highlight read of my Monday mornings.
Lady Carnarvon,
I just signed up for your blog and am getting SO much out of it. I was interested in Highclere originally due to its involvement in the King Tut excavations, and then Downton Abbey grabbed my psyche and just ran away with it into the “civilized” culture of Edwardian, and then the Modern eras! Which brings me to: Lady Mary Crawley’s insistence on the importance of the Abbey in keeping up history and tradition by making sure Downton Abbey stayed solid for future generations–in her case, her family. Yet I see so clearly how you and Lady Mary parallel in that reverence for Downton’s/Highclere’s past, and so you embody something for the public that many were only introduced to through the luck of Highclere having been chosen as Downton Abbey. Your blogs stitch the two together so beautifully, through your devotion and reverence for the property and its ways. Thanks so much for all your family does to keep us connected to the richness of history and traditions.
Thank you
Dear Lady Carnarvon:
Thank you for your Monday blog and sharing a little bit of your childhood memories. Really like the pencil sketch of Stockbridge. Do you know who the artist is?
Until next week, keep walking the beaten path.
Perpetua Crawford
Thank you
Your words bring back memories of a trip to Ireland as a first stop on our journey, the ultimate goal of which was the Chelsea flower show. We were visiting the Rock of Cashel which overlooked a lie valley on one side. I made a photograph of a herd of cattle moving in a straight line along a narrow path stretching across the valley.
I am currently reading your new book, The Earl and the Pharaoh, and enjoying it very much! It gives me a chance to imagine life during the 5th Earl’s days and compare how life is now at Highclere. Life carries on at Highclere with different challenges. I have enjoyed learning about about English life through the ages having read most of your books and your blogs, and watching your interviews on Viking TV. The sheep on the hills of your estate painted a very nice picture in my mind when we visited Highclere so I loved seeing your picture of the sheep on the hill!
You are kibd
Over here in country Victoria we have the well defined wombat paths. They cross my property and woe betide any human who interferes! wombats are very determined nocturnal warriors!
On our visit to Highclere Castle in 2019 during the Christmas season, on our drive out of the property which took us past Diana’s Temple, your sheep were grazing along the lane we were on and we stopped to snap lovely up close photos of them! I adore sheep, so calmly grazing or the baby lambs cavorting in the Spring season. We don’t see any grazing on hills here in NW Ohio which is mainly flat where we reside. However there is a farmer down the road from us that does have a fenced in pasture and they have sheep and I always love to see them and get my “sheep fix” when they are sometimes outdoors enjoying the good weather!
Enjoyed reading the blog today about the sheep.
Cattle do the same thing. They have paths created by their daily routes to water or grazing spots. It is so interesting to watch them on their daily treks around the property. One will decide it is time to move and all follow along.
Dear Lady Carnorvan: What an interesting story. You are teaching me so many interesting facts about so many things. I can’t wait to get your new book.
Have a blessed day.
Donna Grubbs
Midlothian, VA
Thank you
Thanks for Great read.. my daughter has her own wee flock as a hobby. Great characters!
Dear Lady Carnarvon
I wrote a comment before and still enjoy your blog so much and am a trained archeologist by my first degree and will obtain your book!
Congratulations on its publication
I have an interesting story about sheep actually; my mother raised champion Arabians and had a dear friend who had a thousand sheep in the valley and mountains of Idaho
USA on the Nevada border .
One year mothers friend Anita sent a basque sheep herder and her flocks c a border collie up the mountain for three months for summer ranging to escape the intense valley heat. The sheepherder unbeknownst to Anita took off , abandoning and leaving the huge flock and dog! There are wolves in that area…
One morning to her amazement after a three month absence down the hills comes an enormous group of sheep followed closing by the border collie!!! Good dog!!!! Had guarded them for months and eaten dog food in the tent long since abandoned by humankind ha
Not an animal was lost to wolf pack I thought of this event c your delightful blog tonight and know you will understand the courage heart and bravery of the dogs as well that often tend these flocks !
Best to you from flooded Northern California!
Laura Getman
Lovely story
Lady Carnoven. I’ve had the pleasure of two visits to Highclere. My furst visit was with a blue guide MarionStockley from outside London. We were able to go into Spencer House,#1 London
Every spot inWestminster,St. Paul’s Cathedral. But most of all Highclere. My first time in the dining room. Seeing King ? on a beautiful grey horse rearing up. I’ll never forget it. Every room breathtaking. I am 87 years old now but still have high hopes of one more adventure in England
And hopefully a trip to Highclere. My photos keep Me in touch with tge past and hopes for the future.
Thank you, Lady Carnarvon, for your fascinating blog. I have been a student and lover of English history all my adult life, and one of my fondest wishes is to visit Highclere one day. Best wishes from Madison, Wisconsin.
This was a lovely read and so interesting. The historical aspects were fascinating and I have also shared that awed sense of sharing the landscape with those who came before. I agree that winter particularly reminds us of this. A dusting of snow reveals the hidden ribs of old stone walls in a wood or the edges of a sunken foundation for a long gone home in a field.
They also know how to find a single weak spot in miles of fences.