The Soundscape of Home

I first visited Egypt with Geordie in 2004.  We were helping to lead a tour following in the footsteps of the 5th Earl of Carnarvon. It was a magical experience and throughout it I kept a diary. I usually wrote in pencil and often my thoughts were not very long!  

I was inspired by the diaries of the intrepid Victorian traveller and Egyptologist Amelia Edwards without any claim that my commentary was of the same ilk. However, I kept it and, years later, managed to find said diary amongst the mess of my desks and shelves. In a sense it was an archaeological project of my own. 

More recently, as I started to research my book “The Earl and the Pharaoh” and needed all possible records to hand, I rather doubtfully opened my diary, wondering if I had in fact written anything useful at all. My pencilled notes began with descriptions of the sounds of Egypt: the haunting calls of the muezzin echoing across the sunrose tinted rooftops, the sound of the Nile and the distant chatter of boatmen determined to sell you something and passionate about telling you stories of their country. 

The sound of horses’ hooves on the roads, the continual hooting of car horns and muffled noise of car tyres, the birds wheeling above and the calls of children enticing tourists to buy more cotton shawls, handmade toys, prints or jewellery. Much of it must have sounded the same as when the 5th Earl was sitting on the balcony of the Winter Palace, enjoying one of his Turkish cigarettes and reading as he looked across the Nile.  

What would the soundscape have been like in the time of Tutankhamun? The Nile would have lapped at the boats, there would have been trumpets to greet a King or senior statesman, the calls of horses pulling carts or being shouted at as a chariot swept by would all have been there. Priests may well have been calling the populace to prayer,  men shouting for trade or women laughing and chatting as they made their way along the streets. There would probably have been more birds and animals as it was far greener then and overall, far more colourful and undoubtedly there would have been much more noise from cows, donkeys, monkeys and dogs. 

However, it is very hard to “read” sounds from the words and texts of yesteryear. Even today where the soundscape of much of our life at Highclere is something I can share through Instagram or the videos from quirky places which make their way to Friends of Highclere, it is not the same as being here. You cannot wholly replace the reality of hearing as well as seeing the little robin in the yew tree or the red kite wheeling over a cedar tree plus it is also often rather challenging to unite what the eye sees, and the ear hears on a video. 

As with any place, sounds and noises define my sense of Highclere so I know when I am back. First of all, the dogs will be barking, rushing around, snuffling and picking up presents to give me. The gravel all around the Castle is very distinctive and if you have watched Downton Abbey, you may well be able to recall the crunch of Carson’s polished shoes as he walks across it. Then you have the bells and chimes of our clocks which often caused Downton a few problems as they did not always marry up with the timeline of the script! 

Sounds are amazingly atmospheric. The Downton Abbey opening credits open with a servants’ bell board, with the ringing sound a call to action. Poppy the labrador is very fond of the resounding dinner gong, expectant at the possible treats it implies. I find it rather curious that so many people today wear ear pods and headphones when out for walk thus echoing only their own thoughts or conversations and missing out on all the sounds around them. 

Walking through Luxor in Egypt today I rarely see any such headgear – just the sights and sounds of everyday life. If you have not been to Egypt, please add it to your list. I thought I might work to put together a programme for a  few days in November 2027 – it is an extraordinary country.