Weathered Faces
Weathered Faces
I am late walking my gaggle of dogs and am trying to hasten back for their breakfast before they begin to investigate the lunch the carparking team has innocently left in open backpacks inside the visitor reception building. Meanwhile, by the path leading to the ticket booth a group of ladies stand together giddy with excitement. ‘Downton Abbey’ is on their bucket list and finally their travel plans and, amazingly, a sunny day, have coincided to bring them here. I can see the mobile phones extended and hear a babble of chatter – “It looks just the same as it does on TV…..”
In their hurry to move towards the Castle, most don’t not even notice the stone sculptures adorning each gate pillar. Weathered with time, the man and woman gaze ahead into the distance. Perhaps they were once patrons here, full of interest in the comings and goings. I am not sure how old they are (is that a polite question?!) but they recall medieval times in terms of their dress and style.
Lacking knowledge I assume they are portraits of two predecessors, sculptures which you can sort of walk around even if they a little two dimensional. However, they are not the only such sculptures at Highclere. Carved into the stone, particularly in the towers, are a number of faces and heads, each different and full of character. They represent both an individual identity and a style which, like the castle, is cast in time.
Rather like gargoyles on a church roof, these heads are placed looking down on us all. Perhaps in the manner of those medieval stonemasons of so long ago, these more modern craftsmen also ensured their own eternity and carved themselves into here? Some of the faces seem to have a crown, others are simply adorned with flowing beards and noble faces.
In both classical antiquity and the Middle Ages, it was generally believed that the soul resided in the head and that as such, it was the centre of each person’s identity. A face communicates human expression, emotion, and character and thus, as a work of art, the sculpted heads are a perpetual remnant of a certain time. Often during times of upheaval and religious unrest, political and religious monuments are deliberately destroyed with heads being separated from their bodies and settings. Yet often it is the heads that survive, maybe out of reverence for the grand monuments to which they once belonged but perhaps because of their innate beauty outside of their original significance.
Taking time out to sit and look, I always find it extraordinary that the faces (and wyverns and grotesques) are carved into the bath stone here at all. Most guests and visitors will never notice them but maybe, they are quite appropriate to the modern-day Castle in that for many, in a way, we too have become a place of “pilgrimage”.
Such has been, and still is, the global attraction of Downton Abbey that Highclere has become part of people’s “wish lists” – somewhere they make long term plans to visit. Downton is a beloved world of modern storytelling blended with real heritage, a world apart. Guests arrive with friends or family or sometimes on their own and there is a palpable excitement to their visit. It is a privilege to be part of it and to see their faces and to share their enthusiasm.
Our faces are “the mirror of the mind, and eyes without speaking confess the secrets of the heart.” Everyone has their own journey but our experiences make our characters and resilience, just like those faces on the walls.
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61 Comments
Lovely the pictures of weathered and did you and lord Carnarvon have a wonderful weekend and lam fan of Downton Abbey and highcelere castle
Lady Carnarvon,
Such an interesting column! I too wonder about the small intricacies we often miss in life - seeing the forest but not the trees. Whose faces are carved? Who wore the crown? Did the stonemasons have a list of people they were to portray? We took many pictures of Highclere when we were there. Now, where are they?
Hoping you and Lord Carnarvon have a lovely summer,
Martha G.
As always, a very insightful posting. I have been privileged to visit Highclere five times. And, each visit, I too get a bit giddy! Just wonderful. Thank you!
Thank you for explaining the sculptures. I have often seen them during the course of watching the show. One day my sister and I hope to visit. Until then, we are trying to survive a major heat wave here in the Stayes, which has been most uncomfortable.
Love your posts on history and your amazing home. Truly a favorite of ours, along with your Highclere gin and spectacular gift shop! Bless you❤️
As always, beautifully written.
It’s lovely to hear your observations of the visitors to Highclere/Downton and to areas of interest of the house itself.
Having watched Downton over the years approximately 6 times in its entirety, we plan on one day visiting ourselves!
It’s become like an old friend, that you can revisit as it’s always entertaining and comforting at the same time.
Escapism from the world we currently live in.
I’m curious to know if any of the dogs that were in the series, were any of yours?
That would be even more amazing!!!
After several visits to Highclere, I find there is always something new to discover.
Like many if your visitors, I barely glanced at the head carvings set into the outside walls but they certainly are fascinating. Thank you for your insight in bringing them to our attention, I will certainly look out for them on my next visit. .
I always look forward to starting my week with your blog posts. Takes me back to our very enjoyable visit there in the Spring of last year!
Please keep it up.
Thank you!
Thank you for remind us how our state of mind can significantly influence our faces. I have observed faces that look harsh, peaceful, or calm. Today, I won't allow stress and negative thoughts affect me. I intend to smile, and like the stone faces at Highclere, I will show enthusiasm.
So true!! Now I want you to research and find out who they are!
And yes, Highclere is on my bucket list!
Hello Lady Carnarvon
Love the sculptures!
And lovely essay by the way !
I think these stone faces are there to protect Highclere Castle: your spiritual armour if u like!
Intriguing!
Thankyou
Best wishes
FLEURINA DECORTES de GILBERT
Orange City East
Central Western NSW
Australia
It must be very special to be the caretakers of so many traveler’s
long awaited destination! It is a very place indeed which you preserve with meticulous attention!
As normal, fascinating!
Information, about such an iconic castle and its architecture and history.
Good day from Salem, Oregon! The faces are very interesting, and make me wonder who they are and what their lives were like. I read your book about Almina and thoroughly enjoyed stepping back in time to learn about her and the family. Thank you for sharing about the past and present life of Highclere and it's people!
Wishing you much peace and joy.
Elizabeth McLaughlin
We were there about 3 weeks ago and it was lovely! Unfortunately, it was a very rainy day so we didn’t get to spend time outside. So sorry we missed all this.
My dearest Lady Fiona,
Good morning from Brazil.
Lovely week for us.
Lady Fiona, good words.
Milady is very special when
write .
Has sensitivity of poets to write anything ...
VILA ALEMÃ
RIO CLARO-SP
BRAZIL.
Was there last week. Definitely a highlight to see it.
Thank you for pointing out more to look at as I'm one of those giddy people looking forward to my visit in August!
Thank You,
As Ever. I particularly needed that quiet meditation today - a great plus for me is that I truly hear it in your voice!
Chip
We are scheduled to visit Highclere in late July!!
Some of the most interesting parts such as the sculptured heads are not always noticed when I visit I will make a point of doing so.
Many thanks for your
blog
Lovely the pictures of weathered face did you and lord Carnarvon have a wonderful weekend and lam fan of Downton Abbey and highcelere castle
I took a picture of the ones at the gate when we were there. Isn't it always amazing to think of all the days, people, and events that they have witnessed?
Have a lovely day!
Julie
I have always been fascinated by faces as artwork, particularly those in stone (although I do also love a beautiful cameo!) and I have several hanging in my garden. Have you created any kind of pictorial guide for Highclere visitors so that they don’t miss any of these beauties?
My mother said to me over and over again, “Put on a face to meet the faces you will meet….”. by which she meant for me to smile and always have a happy face on.
Well here i live at age 85 and I am smiling as I write this.
Another interesting read thank you ,
Well worth another visit to the things we missed
Thank you
I keep missing things - every day
She was right!
Maybe something to do in the future!
tumbling out the car- phone in hand I hope!!!
See you then
Thank you - have you read Catherine?
Thank you
I enjoy writing the blogs
Our dogs watched!
As always, very informative and enjoyable. Thank you.
In May 2023, I was one of those giddy ladies who stood outside waiting for the doors to slowly open, as Carson had done throughout the series. Although there was a chill in the air, the wait allowed me time to take in the architectural design of the castle and its stone carvings. Yes, Lady Carnarvon, they looked down upon me in a curious, but invitational manner, so that I, too, could share a bit of its history. Thank you for sharing your home throughout the years.
Greetings from The Lake District..
My sister and I have loved sharing some of our journey with yourselves and Highclere with wonderful visits to a Magic of the Movies day and also a Christmas Champagne and Canapés evening. During that evening a lovely couple became engaged ( in the traditional manner ..on one knee asking for her hand!) in a delightful moment on the Grand staircase. There was even more champagne and happy wishes for their future!
We all shared that journey on that memorable evening.
With very best wishes
Good evening, Lady Carnarvon.
Yet again you gave me another reason to visit Highclere, and no, I will not walk by and not look at and wonder about the details. I was in Scotland a few weeks ago and had planned on taking the train down to specifically visit Highclere and fulfill a place on my bucket list but alas, the fates had other ideas. I do look forward to visiting and perhaps getting a glimpse of you walking your dogs.
I hope you have a good evening.
Sincerely,
Jayson Lambert-Roszak
Thank you for another welcome morning read. My 2 sisters, a family friend and I were just like that group of ladies. Waiting with eager anticipation of our day exploring Highclere Castle and the grounds. It was a wonderful day from walking down the driveway and seeing Highclere within walking distance. We were so excited and had a fabulous day seeing just some of the extensive grounds and gardens and our tour of the Castle. It exceeded our expectations and our second visit in 2023 was just as fabulous. What a joy it has been to have had the privilege to visit Highclere. And we even had a quick chat with you - it was so very kind of you. We will always want to visit Highclere each time we come to the UK - there’s always something new, or some details in the architecture, like the carved faces, that we missed last time.
I'll be there with the Viking group in early July (so soon!) I'll try to find the face of the last photo of the gentleman who must be Shakespeare! I hope to meet up with you during the Great Homes, Castles and Gin tour. Looking forward to the day with great anticipation.....
Hello!
I so enjoy your blogs weekly.
Visiting your home is also on my Bucket list. We were in the UK 2 years ago, and no dates were open. We won't let that happen again.
Are you looking forward to the new movie opening in September, I am!!! When I was working and traveling for work, my comfort show is Downtown Abbey. I know I have watched completely at least 20 times in the last 7 years.
Thank you and have a wonderful week.
Lisa Cosgrove
Bolingbrook IL
(25 miles southwest of Chicago)
Dear Lady Carnarvon,
My husband and I will be visiting Highclere on Sept 16 th. I am so excited and will savor every moment.
The curiosity and warmth of your writings makes me experience Highclere from a world away.
Leslie H.
Please plan a pictorial guide! And let us pre-order!
Martha G
Beautifully written, as always. My wife, daughter, son-in-law, and myself took a day during our trip to London last August to visit the Castle, as one of our most desired sights. We could not have enjoyed it more. Not just the wonderful tour, but the high tea and, a real surprise, the captivating and exceptionally well-staged Egyptian exhibit. No one visiting Great Britain should pass up the opportunity to visit Highclere.
We were at the castle last week, my husband and I, and did see some of the heads, and the lady on the gate, as the attendant packed our luggage most graciously into the shed. We have been seeing the lady on the gate in Jeeves and Wooster over and over again so reliving more than one fantasy from literature blossomed into our reality on tv. When we got to the Gallery, my husband shouted "EuLily!" And made me burst out laughing. We had such a swell time but missed you, off at Ascot, and Phoebe of course. There might be more to know about your carved heads, I am presuming you have tried a little all ready. It might make an interesting research project. Loved our visit and the garden! Swl
Thank you for visiting
What a wonderful memory for you
We hope to welcome you soon
We look forward to welcoming you
We very much look forward to welcoming you in September
Thank you and I am so pleased you enjoyed your visit
Dear Lady Carnarvon,
The bit about the belief that the soul resides in the head explains a lot. This is a new concept for me.
So many handsome stone carvings at Highclere! I do feel sad for the stone lady on the gatepost. Is there a way to have her wounded chin repaired?
Sunny
From Atlantic Canada
Love your blogs. Somehow I was removed from your list? Please add me again. Pamela Blithe
My phone is keeping London time, as well as Trinity, Florida time, where I live, because my family will be there to visit you on July 6th. We could not be more excited! Thank you for opening your home so graciousely to all of us. And thank you for all that you did during the pandemic to virtually open your home and make us all feel more like world travelers!
I have really enjoyed your piece on the sculptured heads some look Tudor from the caps and hair style. They are very expressive and well weathered. Reminds me of a Ghost Story of Christmas which was broadcast in the 1970s revived of recent years. I'm really lucky and I've been round Highclere twice. It's one of the best houses to visit and I really love the grounds, but I feel there's always something I missed so would love to visit again. The program Downtown Abbey is always a pleasure to watch and when I watched Jeeves and Wooster it was great to see some of the characters in cameo during my visit. Thank you for the blogs I really look forward to them.
Good Afternoon Lady Carnarvon
I always enjoy the way you find a way to point out things that most of us would walk straight by; these sculptures, for instance. That, is one of the things I miss most about England, seemingly insignificant architectural details that most of the public would take no notice of, and, if they do, it's just a moment's distraction with no further thought behind the look.
Having seen all the Downton Abbey films, it's a delight to read your blogs and find out all the other details we wouldn't normally find out. I haven't visited Highclere Castle, but my sister Lucy has talked about it. Have a lovely week.
.
Greetings,
I love your posts, as always, dear cousin, and this one in particular today. It is reminiscent of a line I read (almost a 'score' (skor) ago) in the Bhagavad Gita where it was said, "a person's face is the gateway to their soul"!
Thank you again Lady C n Geordie I love your blogs hoping to get down from Sheffield to see High clare iv now got all of the books about High clare , csrnt wait to read the Christmas one
On our visit in December 2019, I did notice the sculptures at the front gate and have a photo of the sculptures that you speak of in post. Of course, Highclere was adorned for Christmas as we walked up the winding drive towards the castle. it all seemed surreal to me, the driveway was adorned with small potted pine trees with lights and the massive front doors, the iron fox heads with Christmas wreaths and the iron dragons by the doors. I also noticed the lucky horseshoe above a blue door on one of the out buildings. I love all the little and some not so little surprises that catch an eye!
Love your castle and hope one day to visit when the gardens are in full bloom!
Thank you so much for your blogs, I do enjoy reading them. I appreciate the fact that you teach your readers history each week,and today we learned one more fascinating item about Highclere.